Escape to the cloud forest

We just finished up a nice, long weekend here in Nicaragua for the Fiestas Patrias (Independence Day festivities), and Elder and I decided to skip town with all its loud parades and parties and hot hot heat, and head for the cool climes and tranquility of the cloud forest around Esteli, a couple hours north of here.

It was just what the doctor ordered. On Friday, we each had some work and other errands to finish up, so we didn't get on the road until almost 4pm. And we were more than ready! It was a hot one in Leon that day, getting up to 100 degrees as I was bustling around the house, sweating and trying to pack us up. What a relief it was to get out of the car in Esteli a few hours later and feel that cool mountain air. I felt silly in my shorts, tank-top and sandals and happily changed into jeans, sneakers and a sweater.

That night we dined at El Rincón Pinareño, a great Cuban restaurant which we had eaten at and loved on our last trip to Esteli over two years ago -- our first trip with La Poderosa!

The next morning, we had a hearty Nicaraguan breakfast at our hotel and then hit the road for some exploring around the Miraflor Nature Reserve in the cloud forest. Sure enough, as we headed upwards, the clouds and fog began to envelop us and we were enchanted by the cool, fresh air and colorful flowers along the way. We made our way up leisurely, stopping to take photos when the mood struck - such as at this sweet little flower nursery that had only opened a few months ago.

A little before noon, we arrived at the farm and eco-lodge, Finca Neblina del Bosque, where hearty chicken soup and barbecued pork were being prepared. We reserved our lunch orders, and then wandered around the grounds, soaking in the beauty of the gardens and taking photos of every flower, butterfly and hummingbird we saw. That meant a lot of photos. Elder spent quite some time with one hummingbird in particular until it warmed up to him and posed on a branch for a photo shoot.

After lunch, we did a little hiking up the dirt road, past tall mossy trees, rusted fences, muddy puddles, flower farms, children on horseback, and humble homes surrounded by vibrant tropical blooms. Then we arrived at another farm and eco-lodge, Finca Fuente de Vida, where we stopped in for a passion-fruit juice, bathroom stop and more tours of luscious gardens, including a few precious orchids. Here there were even more hummingbirds flitting around, chasing one another and humming around our heads in non-stop motion.

Amidst all the gorgeous flowers, butterflies and hummingbirds that day, I couldn't stop thinking about my mom and I smiled as I thought repeatedly: She would love this place. She would absolutely love it. I felt like she was present with us, her spirit swooping and humming and flitting all around us, surrounding us with her love and joy and appreciation of these beautiful and simple things in life.

We headed back to town feeling full and satisfied with our day of exploration in the cloud forest, and continued to take photos all the way back, of the spooky ghost trees draped with Spanish moss, the scenic country roads, La Poderosa and the sun setting behind the mountains.

Back in town, we had a nice dinner at Casa Vecchia, a good Italian restaurant recommended by some friends, and late Sunday morning we headed out for a little more exploring - this time to the Tisey Nature Reserve, where we had stayed on our previous trip to Esteli. Once again our noon-day timing was impeccable as we happened upon a lovely country restaurant right as lunch was getting started. We were quite pleased with our discovery, as the place had individual open-air casitas for each table, each surrounded by abundant gardens. The food was excellent, and we relaxed there for a while before moving on.

After lunch, we headed up to La Garnacha, a community where we had stayed on our previous trip, and walked out to the viewpoint. We then made one more stop for a short hike to another beautiful viewpoint, but it started raining, so we took that as a sign that it was time to head home, back to our steamy Leon.

All in all, a wonderful getaway to the cool Nicaraguan mountains. Happiness.

For plenty more beautiful photos, look here: